kake: The word "菜單" (Chinese for "menu") in various shades of purple. (菜單)
新年快樂!

Happy New Year! 新年快樂 (xīn nián kuài lè)!

Today marks the start of the Year of the Dragon! To celebrate this, I have a guest post from [personal profile] shuripentu, who has previously guest posted here on the subject of the Mid-Autumn Festival. Last year I posted a brief introduction to the Chinese lunisolar calendar, which led to my asking her to do another guest post for this New Year. Shuri is a Canadian of Chinese descent, and a great fan of calendrical systems, mathematics, and footnotes.

Now over to Shuri...

A while back, my mother and I were discussing the Chinese calendar[1], and I happened to mention that the Hong Kong Observatory has some useful Gregorian-Chinese conversion tables. "What does the Observatory have to do with it?" asked Mum.

The involvement of an observatory in setting a calendar may seem odd to those of us who are used to the purely arithmetically defined Gregorian calendar: the number of days in a year, and the way those days are divided into months, is set by a simple numerical algorithm. That the Gregorian year remains closely synchronised with the actual solar year[2] is entirely due to the well-chosen numbers involved in the algorithm: there is no need to track the position of the sun or moon, or attempt to match any solar event – an equinox or solstice, say – with any particular Gregorian day.

The Chinese calendar, however, is defined almost entirely by astronomical events, and therefore requires the accurate and precise prediction of when these events will occur. The core requirement of the Chinese calendar is that each month must begin with the day (starting at midnight in Beijing – for astronomical calendars, location is crucial[3]) containing the new moon. Now if, for example, the moment of a new moon occurs very close to midnight, then correctly determining whether the new month begins on the previous day or the next requires a very good astronomical model, and an error would result in the lengths of both months, and the numbering of all the days in the second month, being incorrect.

Like most calendars, the Chinese calendar aims to remain in sync with the solar year. In order to do so, it divides the solar year into 24 segments called solar terms, each corresponding to 15° of solar longitude. The odd-numbered terms are minor solar terms, and the even-numbered ones are major solar terms. Then, to compute the number and arrangement of the months (of which there are either 12 or 13) in a Chinese calendar year, the following rules are applied:

  • The 22nd solar term, 冬至 (Dōng Zhì/"Winter Solstice"), always begins on a day contained in Month 11.
  • If there are 13 new moons between a winter-solstice-to-winter-solstice period, then one of those new moons is the start of a leap month. The leap month is selected by finding the first month in this period which does not contain the first day of a major solar term.
  • The leap month is given the same number as the month that preceded it; it is a second go at the same month, if you will. For example, the upcoming Chinese calendar year contains 13 months, and the months are numbered: 1, 2, 3, 4, 4 again, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12.[5]

I find the generational differences in the use of the Chinese calendar interesting. My grandparents now use the Gregorian calendar for everyday things, but still celebrate their birthdays according to the Chinese calendar[7]; I'm not sure they even know their Gregorian birthdays offhand. (I'd certainly need to look it up, whereas I do know their Chinese birthdays.) My parents, on the other hand, celebrate their birthdays according to the Gregorian calendar, and it's their Chinese birthdays that would need looking up. However, my grandparents don't know offhand what their Chinese zodiac signs[8] are – it's apparently something their generation didn't pay much attention to – whereas my parents most certainly do. (And nowadays the zodiac signs are everywhere: as cheap trinkets, as not-so-cheap trinkets, and incorporated into all sorts of personalised gubbins.) So while the use of the Chinese calendar as an actual calendar has fallen away, the use of it to provide an aspect of personal identity has increased.

And finally, since this is a food blog, here is the foodstuff which I most strongly associate with Chinese New Year: the traditional tray of sweets.

Description follows.

[Image: A circular tray of sweets, divided into sections, sitting on a red tablecloth.]

On either side of the tray are bowls containing dried seeds of some sort – the internet suggests watermelon. In the centre of the tray are 利是糖 (lì shì táng, which translates roughly as "lucky money candy", since the wrappers resemble the red envelopes in which monetary gifts are given), the one true candy for Chinese New Year. It's just your average boiled sweet really, but you've got to have them, and I think there's only the one company that produces them; they must rake in the profits every winter. I can't identify the rest of the things in that tray, except for the single slice of dried lotus root (it's the thing that resembles a wagon wheel above and to the left of the sweets), but they'll mostly be dried fruits and nuts and suchlike, and they'll all be deliciously sugar-laden.

1 Disclaimer: I have spent almost all of my life living in non-Chinese-majority countries, so my experiences of things Chinese predominantly reflect my family's particular views and traditions and may therefore be extremely idiosyncratic.

2 In this post, I use "solar year" to specifically mean the tropical year, "lunar month" to specifically mean the synodic month, "day" to specifically mean a civil day, and "midnight" to specifically mean local civil midnight.

3 The pedant in me notes that it is not strictly necessary for an astronomical calendar to take location[4] into account, but I have yet to meet one that does not do so. That way lies wailing and gnashing of teeth.

4 The super-pedant in me clarifies that I of course meant location on this planet. Which is Earth. (For now.)

5 Note, however, that due to the variable length of the lunar month (presently ranging between 29.27 to 29.84 days, with an average of 29.53 days[6] – and besides, it is never an integral number of days anyway), the number of days in a Chinese calendar month varies from month to month and year to year. In the above example from 2012-13, the first round of Month 4 has 30 days, but the second round of Month 4 – the leap month – only has 29 days. Next year, Month 4 will have 29 days again, and the year after that, Month 4 will have 30 days.

6 Dershowitz, Nachum, and Edward M. Reingold, Calendrical Calculations, 3rd edn (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2008), p. 193. Much of my understanding of the Chinese calendar, and calendrical systems in general, is indebted to this inimitable work; any errors in my understanding are entirely my fault.

7 I'd never considered it until now, but the extremely variable nature of the Chinese calendar creates a lot of edge-case birthdays, and I wonder how people with them handle it. For example, any given Chinese calendar month will sometimes have 30 days, but some years it'll only have 29 days – what do people born on the 30th of the month do? I figure they probably just celebrate on the 29th, or the 1st of the next month, but I don't actually know. And leap years don't insert single leap days but entire leap months – and it's not always in the same place either! How do people cope? I should probably ask.

8 According to my father – and this is backed up by at least one website on Chinese astrology – the change in zodiac sign occurs not at Chinese New Year as commonly believed, but at the 1st solar term, 立春 (Lì Chūn/"Start of Spring"), which occurs around 4 February. This isn't something most people will know, though, unless they have consulted (or are) a Chinese astrologer.

If you have any questions or corrections, please leave a comment (here's how) and let me know (or email me at kake@earth.li). See my introductory post to the Chinese menu project for what these posts are all about.
kake: The word "菜單" (Chinese for "menu") in various shades of purple. (菜單)

As I mentioned in Wednesday's post on 生 (shēng/raw), one dish often eaten on the seventh day of Chinese New Year celebrations is 魚生 (yú shēng), or raw fish salad. This custom is perhaps associated more with the Chinese diaspora (particularly in Malaysia and Singapore) than with the mainland itself, and it's also a relatively recent invention (from the 1960s), but since I love raw fish I wanted to post about it anyway.

The Wall Street Journal has a nice overview of 魚生 written by Robyn Eckhardt of Eating Asia. As Robyn explains, the name of the dish is pronounced exactly the same way as the phrase 餘升 (yú shēng), which means something along the lines of "increased abundance".

魚生 essentially consists of strips of raw fish (perhaps most often salmon) combined with various finely-shredded vegetables (carrot, daikon, etc), some crispy bits (crackers, deep-fried dough crisps, or deep-fried crispy noodles), and a sweet-and-sour dressing. What makes it particularly special is the method of serving it — ingredients are added one at a time to a large platter in the middle of the dining table, with an auspicious saying recited for each one, and then all the diners take their chopsticks and toss the salad in a group effort to mix it up before eating. According to Wikipedia, the higher in the air each person tosses the salad, the greater the increase in their fortunes over the coming year.

Noob Cook has not only a recipe for 魚生, but also a list of the auspicious sayings associated with each ingredient; this list is in Chinese characters only, but see the bottom of this Singaporean article on 魚生 for a list in pinyin and English. Sunflower also has a 魚生 recipe.

If you don't want to do all the shredding yourself, you may be able to buy a "kit" which has the ingredients pre-shredded; here's a photo of a yú shēng stall in Singapore, with the characters 魚生 visible on its banner (the others being 發財, which I mentioned in last week's post on 羅漢齋/luó hàn zhāi/Buddha's delight).

If you have any questions or corrections, please leave a comment (here's how) and let me know (or email me at kake@earth.li). See my introductory post to the Chinese menu project for what these posts are all about.
kake: The word "菜單" (Chinese for "menu") in various shades of purple. (菜單)

Today is the fifth day of the New Year by the Chinese calendar. Unlike British new year celebrations, which are generally restricted to the evening/night of the last day of the previous year (and generally followed by hangovers), Chinese new year celebrations can continue until the fifteenth day of the new year.

Today I'd like to link to some New Year related blog posts I've enjoyed reading.

Sunflower has a great post from 2009 listing traditions associated with the different days of the New Year celebrations, and symbolically lucky foods that are eaten throughout.

Red Cook describes the planning and execution of a ten-course New Year banquet that he held in 2008.

Charmaine Mok has a lovely post with some great pictures detailing a New Year spent with her family after three years away. You may recognise one of the photos from my post last week on 羅漢齋 (luó hàn zhāi/Buddha's delight) — she uses the Cantonese transliteration, loh hon jai.

Helen Yuet Ling Pang describes and photographs some traditional New Year foods and their symbolism.

Milk and Cookies has some photos from the 2009 Chinese New Year celebrations in London.

Bread et Butter has not only a very comprehensive post on the foods of Chinese New Year, but also an explanation of Hokkien New Year, which is celebrated on the ninth day of the year.

I'm also going to sneak in a non-Chinese link here — the Vietnamese year starts on the same day as the Chinese year, and the New Year is celebrated in a festival known as Tết Nguyên Đán. Playing With My Food reports on several delicious-looking vegan dishes that his family enjoys on the first day of the new year.

If you have any questions or corrections, please leave a comment (here's how) and let me know (or email me at kake@earth.li). See my introductory post to the Chinese menu project for what these posts are all about.
kake: The word "菜單" (Chinese for "menu") in various shades of purple. (菜單)
A metal dish holds several cooked ingredients including 髮菜 (fà cài/black moss), 粉絲 (fěn sī/glass noodles), beancurd skin, and leafy vegetables.  The black moss is clumped together in the middle of the dish.  Little or no sauce is visible.
Photo © Charmaine Mok, used by permission.

One dish commonly eaten on the first day of Chinese New Year celebrations is 羅漢齋 (luó hàn zhāi). This is a vegetarian dish, often translated into English as "Buddha's delight" or "monk's vegetables". Many people prefer to stick to vegetarian food on this day, and 羅漢齋 is a delicious way to do this. It's a savoury stew of fresh and dried ingredients, flavoured with red fermented beancurd.

Finding a good version of 羅漢齋 on a restaurant menu can be a little tricky. I have eaten many, many fairly pedestrian dishes listed as "Buddha's delight" or "monk's vegetables", ordered from restaurants and takeaways that serve Westernised Chinese food rather than the real thing — often a sad selection of tinned vegetables (water chestnuts, bamboo shoots, baby sweetcorn, mushrooms) in a gloopy brown sauce, maybe with some fresh carrots and mangetout if you're lucky.

Ordering from a Chinese-only menu is probably safer, particularly if the name mentions specific ingredients that are usually omitted from the Westernised version, such as 粉絲 (fěn sī/glass noodles) and 南乳 (nán rǔ/red fermented beancurd). I had a rather nice version the other week from Joy King Lau in London, which was listed as 粉絲南乳羅漢齋煲 (fěn sī nán rǔ luó hàn zhāi bào) — the 煲 (bào) here refers to its being served in a claypot.

To make luó hàn zhāi at home, check out Sunflower's 羅漢齋 recipe. Note that the ingredients for the dish may vary between chefs and between families; see the Wikipedia article on Buddha's delight for a listing of other ingredients commonly and less commonly used.

As Sunflower mentions, an essential ingredient when serving 羅漢齋 as a New Year dish is 髮菜 (fà cài), known in English as "black moss", "hair moss", "hair weed", and variations thereon. According to Wikipedia, it's actually a type of bacterium. It's sold dried, in which form it resembles long, fine hair, hence the name. This ingredient is prominently visible in the photograph above.

The reason for 髮菜's importance here is that its name sounds similar to the phrase 發財 (fā cái), which means "becoming rich" — note that the tones are the only difference in pronunciation (in Mandarin, both tones differ, while in Cantonese, 髮 has the same tone as 發). 發財 forms part of the traditional New Year greeting 恭喜發財 (gōng xǐ fā cái), which translates loosely as "wishing you prosperity".

Do note, however, that according to Professor Wayne Armstrong of Palomar College, harvesting of 髮菜 contributes to desertification, and is now restricted in China. Relatedly, an article in the Hong Kong Standard notes that there is counterfeit 髮菜 on the market, at least in some countries, and it can be hard to tell apart from the real thing.

Other common 羅漢齋 ingredients are also considered by some people to have auspicious associations; see this article from a Hawaiian newspaper, which lists a number of such associations.

If you have any questions or corrections, please leave a comment (here's how) and let me know (or email me at kake@earth.li). See my introductory post to the Chinese menu project for what these posts are all about.
kake: The word "菜單" (Chinese for "menu") in various shades of purple. (菜單)
恭喜發財!

Gōng xǐ fā cái!

Gung hei faat coi!

Cung hỉ phát tài!

Happy New Year to everyone who celebrates it. And Happy Thursday to everyone who doesn't :)

kake: The word "菜單" (Chinese for "menu") in various shades of purple. (菜單)

As I mentioned on Monday, tomorrow is the first day of the New Year in the Chinese calendar. In the Chinese zodiac, this coming year is the Year of the Rabbit, so this seems an opportune time to mention the Chinese character 兔 (tù), which means hare or rabbit.

One thing to note about 兔/tù is that although its pinyin transliteration uses the same vowel character as 魚 (yú/fish), the vowel sound is different. As [personal profile] pne explains in a comment on an older post, this is because the "u" of "yú" is really "ü", and so is pronounced more along the lines of French "tu". Conversely, the vowel in 兔/tù is a plain "u", which is pronounced simply "ooh". Remember, the grave accent on the vowel means that it has a falling tone (fourth tone). There's an example pronunciation of 兔 on forvo.com.

Although many people see rabbits purely as pet animals, rabbit is a traditional source of meat both here in the UK and elsewhere. It appears on Chinese menus in various forms; here are some examples:

麻辣水煮兔má là shuǐ zhǔ tùnumbing-spicy water-cooked (水煮/shuǐ zhǔ) rabbit
魚香兔肉yú xiāng tù ròufish-fragrant (魚香/yú xiāng) rabbit
青椒炒兔肉qīng jiāo chǎo tù ròurabbit stirfried with green peppers
怪味兔丁guài wèi tù dīng"strange-flavour" diced rabbit

Rabbit can also turn up in situations where you might expect to see chicken (雞/jī); for example, while 口水雞 (kǒu shuǐ jī/mouthwatering chicken) is a fairly common dish, I've also seen 口水兔肉 (kǒu shuǐ tù ròu), which I presume is rabbit done in the same style.

Finally, I want to point out that the lovely [personal profile] fu has created a latest things Dreamwidth feed for Lunar New Year. She tells me that any new posts tagged with "lunar new year", "chinese new year", or "new year" will appear in this feed. It's looking a little bare at the moment, but hopefully will fill up soon.

兔: radical 10 (儿) Cantodict MandarinTools YellowBridge Zhongwen

If you have any questions or corrections, please leave a comment (here's how) and let me know (or email me at kake@earth.li). See my introductory post to the Chinese menu project for what these posts are all about.
kake: The word "菜單" (Chinese for "menu") in various shades of purple. (菜單)

It is, perhaps, an appropriate time for this blog to come back to life, because this Thursday will be the first day of the New Year in the Chinese calendar.

The Chinese calendar is a type of calendar known as a lunisolar calendar, since it incorporates both the phase of the moon and the season of the solar year. To understand the difference between a lunisolar calendar and a purely lunar calendar, note that while a solar year (the time from one spring equinox to the next) is around 365.24 days on average, a lunar month (the time from one new moon to the next) is around 29.53 days on average, and so the solar year does not have a whole number of lunar months in it; a lunar year consisting of 12 lunar months is about 11 days shorter than a solar year. Hence, a purely lunar calendar (such as the Islamic calendar) will exhibit some "drift" in relation to the seasons, and festivals dated by such a calendar will be celebrated at a slightly different season every year.

A lunisolar calendar avoids this drift by adding an extra month — an intercalary month — every so often. Since the deficit per solar year is around 11 days, which is around a third of a lunar month, this extra month needs to be added roughly every three years. There is an obvious parallel here with the Gregorian calendar's custom of adding an extra day to the end of February every four years or so, to deal with the discrepancy between the solar year and the 365-day year. The next intercalary month in the Chinese calendar will begin on 21 March 2012, lying between the fourth and fifth lunar months.

The method of calculating the Chinese calendar is actually quite complicated, and has changed a number of times over the centuries. Helmer Aslaksen, a mathematician working at the National University of Singapore, has a fairly comprehensive page on the subject. For those who'd prefer to avoid the maths, he links to an online tool for generating Chinese calendars for particular Gregorian months/years; the code behind this is also available as a command-line program, though I haven't tried it out, as I already have the Perl Calendar module installed, which comes with its own command-line tool, cal.pl:

kake@the:~$ cal.pl -c 2 2011

                2011年2月  辛卯年正月大3日始                
Sun 日   Mon 一   Tue 二   Wed 三   Thu 四   Fri 五   Sat 六
                  1廿九     2三十    3正月    4立春     5初三   
 6初四    7初五    8初六     9初七   10初八   11初九    12初十   
13十一   14十二   15十三    16十四   17十五   18十六    19雨水   
20十八   21十九   22二十    23廿一   24廿二   25廿三    26廿四   
27廿五   28廿六

Note, above, the entry for Thursday 3 February; 正月 (zhēng yuè), which denotes the first month of the year. Most of the other entries are numbers, for example the entry for Wednesday 2 is 三十 (sān shí), which means "thirty", this being the 30th day of the final month of the preceding year.

There are also various online calculators for a quick online conversion of a single date, for example Henry Fong's hundred-year calculator.

Characters mentioned in this post:
Other related posts:
If you have any questions or corrections, please leave a comment (here's how) and let me know (or email me at kake@earth.li). See my introductory post to the Chinese menu project for what these posts are all about.

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